Andrea Helmuth

Spreewald Marathon (English Version) 2012

Speed Dating

We are surprised by a press note: “The Lausitz region is only for the hardest among us.” Not only men excite the change or the little adventure, women, too, are unfaithful from time to time. – Quiet more often than you might think.

Not only I stand by it. Being unfaithful may have various reasons and motives: injury, lack of change, monotony. And all that at the beginning of spring. What will happen to this year’s running season? Is our athletic achievement stuck because we are lacking the so-called kick?

Exactly for this reason we focus on completely new training stimuli this weekend on the adventurous experience of the 2012 “Spreewald-Marathon”. We can choose the right event – as if we were clients in a dating agency. Prior to the event we informed us online about all offered races and events. Six completely different profiles at different venues. Yet, main attraction of the entire Spreewald-Marathon is the cucumber – in Bronze, Silver or Gold. Which one of these cast-iron medals you get depends on the race you choose. The cucumbers vary in color and size.

We can not decide; the choice is too large. We go for the “Speed dating” which means that we are trying to do as much as possible in a short time. Indeed the event host offers a lot: From Friday to Sunday 38 races on 25 tracks are carried out in running, cycling, skating, walking, hiking and canoeing. The highlight takes place on Sunday after a really exhausting foreplay: the marathon race.

We did run the “Spreewald-Marathon” once before as a part of our 16-states series and not only Kay steeled a glance at the unknown then; so we just had to come back into the area. Entirely inexperienced and innocent we make new acquaintances leading even the happiest runner to become unfaithful and having an affair in a different sport. Below you can read all about the venues, the races and of course the struggle for the (cucumber)-medals.

Speed dating on three days with four types: Canoeing, Running, Cycling and Skating

The challenge begins with collecting our race kit. You get all your starting documents at the venue of the race. We are overwhelmed by the logistical maximum performance of the event host Hans-Joachim Weidner. Five race offices on five different race locations with over 10.060 athletes on this weekend. We are keen to see whether our documents are where we expect them to be. But the event hosts of the Spreewald-Marathon e.V. are no newcomers. Already for the 10th time they organize Brandenburg’s largest sporting event. Thus it does not surprise that the pickup of our race documents went smoothly.

Here people from the north will meet people from the south, Dutch meet British. For most people participating this weekend target times are irrelevant but the idea of being part of the event experiencing something new and special and adventurous with family and friends enjoying the impressive site because ultimately it is the Olympic idea that counts – the most important thing is taking part – more than victory.

Friday: (Marathon)-Canoing over 42 kilometer

Today we venture out through the Spreedelta an UNESCO Biosphere Reservewith over 1000 kilometers branching watercourse network. In and around the Spree River more than 18.000 plant and animal species grow and prosper. Yet just a fraction has been registered. These include many prominent and protected species such as rare white-tailed eagles and ospreys, Black and White Stork, kingfisher, hoopoes and cranes, otters and beavers. And yet another very colorful species can be found on the Spree River these days: the canoeists.

Being unfaithful for the first time: that’s the kick that excites us. Canoeing routes with or without time-keeping are offered. The selection is vast and we have little idea what we are getting into. In order to participate as much as possible this weekend we choose a canoeing route without time-keeping because that race is offered on Friday.

Having no idea what to expect we carelessly went on the 42 kilometer route. A marathon should be within the realm of possibilities. From joining numerous triathlon events we are used to start with the wet part. We can swim and are fortunately not afraid of cold water. What is missing is the strength in our arms. Canoeing on these slow moving waters demands endurance. At least this way our leg resources are conserved for the future events.

At the Boathouse Leineweber in Burg we receive a road book and the first of four stamps. Renting a boat is not that easy. Canoe, kayak or paddling boat is the question. We choose a double kayak which looks in some way similar to the cucumber we aspire.

“So you have never been in a kayak before? Beginners! Well, good luck then”. In theory paddling sounds quiet easy: paddling with double-ended paddles with front viewing direction. Knowing what to do I cannot await the romantic scenery, cozy togetherness and moments of happiness.

Carefully entering our cucumber

Some canoeist was forced to daredevil underwater stunts because of the law of gravity. Right now realize how deep I am sitting on this miniature plastic seat. Finally we are on our way. I am looking on the water with excitement my arms continually paddling. Once Satan himself ploughed these lands with his oxes as these oxes, stubborn as they were, refused to move forward. Satan became angry driving the oxes criss-cross through the farmland. The land was completely destroyed yet the remaining grooves were filled with water and the Spreewald developed.

Here at the Unterspreewald Lübben the river is supposed to be 4 to 7 meters deep. The main source is located in the Highlands of Lusatia close to the Czech border flowing through the upper Lausitz heath and pond Landscape between the cities of Bautzen and Spremberg also flowing through the cities of Cottbus and Lübben past Beeskow and Fürstenwalde to Berlin.

We are in the Leineweberfließ. Countless branches, a lot of green spots, houses typical for the Spreewald and duck pond conditions. We don’t need to paddle against the current. Paddling straight forward is not that easy and because I am lacking the right technique I scoop additional water in our kayak with every stroke. My butt will be wet in a minute and I am sitting in this broth for hours.

We do not fear getting lost in this flowing labyrinth because all the waterways are marked. Soon we must conquer the first difficult part of our expedition: I am paddling into our first lock. The doors close right behind me, water drains and the height difference is compensated. The locks work with self-service only so I pick up Kay as I leave the lock. Maybe we would be faster if we carried the boat around the lock next time? Indeed one time we pass a lock where we lift the kayak over rolls on the other side. What a neat invention.

After this small time delay we try to pick up speed quickly. And in fact we pass a swimming duck which complains noisy and even a snake took its heels quiet fast because of us. It was at latest now in the curve that our sense of balance was needed. We are paddling rhythmically and synchronically hearing early bird twitter. A real holiday for the soul. Relaxing, relieving stress and clearing our mind and building new strength through it. Exactly how imagined it.

At kilometer 17 we reach the protected monument museum village Lehde. One can see 47 local farms and houses built in the 18th and 19th century and typical for the Spreewald. For more than 100 years the post boat is part of everyday life in this area and still the refuse collection comes by boat. Theodor Fontane once called the village “pocket size lagoon city”.

We pass the open-air museum. The sunlight falls through the high treetops. For a short moment I scarcely conceive the Spreewald romantic. Paddling forward repeatedly passing under bridges for biker and pedestrians.

A short marriage

White plumage and black primary feathers; legs and beak fire-red. The stork couple has not seen each other for a long time and fell upon each other without feeling disturbed by our presence. Although they spent their whole life together they just stay together for the summer. In the fall their ways part and they meet again next spring on this very same power pylon in their nest.

Reaching the city Lübbenau we enter the center of the Spreewald. The large city has a 100 year-old tradition of cucumbers. Even though Napoleons troops stayed here in 1812 (KM18) we must paddle on. Seen from the water everything looks different and we experience the attractiveness of the region Fontane 40 years later enthuses.

Paddling at top performance level

Paddling at top performance level looks different and certainly feels quiet different. That reminds me of 27-time world champion and record canoeist Birgit Fischer. Born in Brandenburg she participated in six Olympic Games winning twelve medals, 8 times Gold leading to an entry into the „Guinness Book of Records”. Being 50 years old now she wanted to have a comeback at this year’s Olympics. Critics ask:”32 years after her first victory and 8 years after her last of eight medals does she really need to have a comeback. Why can’t she just accept her age and retire from professional sport?” I for myself cannot find anything reprehensible in that. Quite the contrary I would say, she proves that being 50 does not automatically make you belong to the “old iron”.

And then there was the shocking news from her physician with the ban of paddling in competitive pace. During a routine check two years ago my physician diagnosed cardiac arrhythmia. No sporting activities anymore. Countless tests as well as stress and long-term EKG leading inevitably to an operation. Due to the steady increase of the more mature (elite) athletes physicians all over the world are more dedicated to the subject. I am fine now, because I don’t have a deadly form of cardiac arrhythmia. However, physical endurance exercise is the first and best preventive measures of these kinds of diseases.

Kilometer 21

An almost collision with a traditional Spree River boat puts me back to realty concentrating on paddling again. The Silver medal is safe now but we want Gold and since we are only at kilometer 21 that means yet again 21 more kilometers. Stopping for a pause? Lunch? Coffee Break? Impossible! We have been paddling for almost 4 hours. The perfect upper arms workout. I can feel the targeted muscle structure already.

The typical Spreewald boat with its floral white-clothed tables are sometimes derogatorily called “meat trawlers”. Again we must wait. These boats always have the right of the way on these waters, also in the locks. In the race program we read: ”The routes can be extended over several days one must only collect all stamps in the road book – starting this Easter.”

Now I know why. I may be biting off more than I can chew. The perfect affair needs to be planned precisely and a not so moral mind. But most importantly you must master your emotions. I am biting my tongue. A bad word for a relationship almost slipped my mouth. I have to pull myself together because in the end we are sitting in the same boat.

Meanwhile my physical and emotional reserves hit rock bottom. I am extremely vulnerable and there is the fact that almost every kilometer offers a waterfront café with docking for crafts. Shortly before the complete breakdown my cerebellum only focuses on two things: coffee and cake. Any further demands are hidden and completely out of scope.

“Panta rhei – everything flows”

Knew Heraclitus the greek philosopher. Right now and right here nothing flows anymore. Maybe my tears, because as we paddle our last kilometers it gets cold and we have to fight counterflow. The mood on board is dark. So is the sky. On the smooth water small squiggles appear. More and more. And no, these are certainly not the air bubbles of a pike, carp, Wels or pikeperch. It starts raining. Romantic? Somehow I guess. The scenery is stunning but the light makes it hard to take good pictures.

At kilometer 38 we pass the Scheidungfließ. Coincidence? After 8 long hours on that plastic seat I am not so sure about the fun in that. And what we nowadays do for fun has been part of everyday life of the people living in that area. Famers used the boats to manage their fields and croplands that could only reached by water. They transported almost everything on their boats. The harvest, animals, construction materials and even caskets. When the water level is low the boats could also be pulled through the watered streets.

9 hours and 13 locks

After 9 hours and 13 lock our premier kayak tour has come to an end. We experienced real Spreewald feeling in green infinity. Cold and wavering and with calluses on my hands I am leaving the kayak. We get the cucumber Gold medal. Others look incredulous: “You did 44 kilometers with that boat?” That is just insane. “So you are marathon runners. Well in that case.” The fact that we got lost after all and paddled two kilometers more we do not tell anybody. The first crisp specialty in form of cast-iron cucumber is well earned.

Saturday: 110 kilometer bicycling

Looting and great suffering changed Lübben between 1642 and 1644 into an uninhabitable city. The inhabitants had no other chance than to flee into the nearby woods of the Spreewald where the armed mercenaries did not dare to go. Neither do we since yesterday.

Good thing that we now, after a short and painful night, waiting in line for the public race. Almost like signs of an alien invasion one can see race bikes in all shapes and sizes with either gel or carbon saddles. Pedal-knights on their Carbon-warhorses. Despite the lack of training we are highly motivated and with self-esteem we started into this weekend. Congratulations on so much stupidity

Cycling without previous training was not planned. 200 kilometers are way too long for us right now. 20 kilometers to short. 110 kilometer hopefully just perfect. Now we will see if our muscles have been preserved over so long without specific training. Our last bike tour was in 2010 at the Frankfurt Ironman. We just did not have any desire for cycling so the bikes vanished in the basement until today. Unbelievable how fast the time runs by.

Due to our prior paddling experience Kay has Popeye-like upper arms whereas my arms look like those of Madonna: clench-fisted, toned and sinewy. We try to ignore the sore muscles. The calluses on my hands I cannot ignore.

4.422 athletes and bikes in abundance. – Pure biking revolution. As in the past, the offered bike tours, always were a great success. No wonder, the region not only provides 1000 kilometer of waterways but also well-built cycling paths. As the starting signal has been given we are still standing at the start number distribution. The sun led many last-minute participants to the Schlossinsel.

Tour de France feeling at the Start

The border between Upper and Lower-Spreewald is the city Lübben. The first kilometers we drive on a heavily frequented street. A few wind turbines can be seen along the road. The sun is shining. I am on stretched sitting position on air handle bars but why not at home on the couch or at a beauty treatment with Spreewald pickles?

Soon we discover that experiencing the beauty of the Spreewald region is not only fun by boat but also by bike. We drive separated from the postcard-transfigured touristic route constantly pedaling.

The familiar feeling comes back as a group of race bikers pass us and my natural instinct is aroused once more. I am wide awake and increase the maximum wattage. It works and I am fast on their heels always in their slipstream. I could do that for hours.

A guy in a Hürzler jersey refuses to lead the group and is not ashamed to let me doing the hard work of driving up front of the 30-strong group. I do not want to dissemble any weakness pedaling constantly. The speedometer says 36 km/h but Kay did not notice. He takes pictures of the group. But unfortunately I cannot keep up for long so I am glad that we are not sure about the way on the next xing leaving the group for good.

On the even terrain we have to work against the wind. 47,5 kilometers on the speedometer and we are lost. The bumpy asphalt ruins our average velocity. Still visible the bright white towers of the village church of Straupitz. Karl Friedrich Schinkel built it in 1827-1832. The church is a historical monument and from supra-regional importance.

But we only care for the refreshment station. It feels like being on vacation. The calorie intake is not a problem at all since the selection is great. Besides the typical cucumber, sandwiches with beef, cheese or lard are offered. A long line forms in front of a stand with typical pancakes so-called “Plinsen”. The participants of the bike marathon now turn left.

Paris/Roubaix

The Spreewald is indeed also a biker’s paradise. Even terrain and the asphalt partly as if freshly ironed. Only once a part reminds me of Paris/Roubaix. But even this cobblestone street is quickly forgotten. Always follow the pickles. We are on the cucumber bike route that is about 250 kilometers long and marked with the symbol of a cycling cucumber. We pass museums, churches and castles. We ride through the cities of Leibschel and Groß Leine. I enjoy the pace. How long did we take for a kilometer yesterday and now we are speeding.

We pass the Briesensee Lake. The route is contorted. We reach the recreation village Burg also known as Prussian soul of the Spreewald. In the 15th century the city was under rule of Brandenburg Prince elector and Prussian kings. On the left hand side of the Schlossbergone can see the 30 meter high Bismarkturm. The monument was established in 1916 and is made of 1,5 million clinker stones.

We are speeding through the Spreewald landscape with its meadows and fields. One must not consider for long time what is being cultivated here. Primarily cucumber and horseradish. Easily visible from the distance, the Slawenbur. In the early middle ages the Lower Lusatia was characterized by ring-shaped castle buildings. The castle is faithfully recreated and serves as a reminder of a nowadays almost lost culture.

The Spreewald initially was Sorbenland only. German settlers called the “Wenden.” Over centuries the rites, languages and culture has been preserved. Words like “Gurke” or “Quark” have been introduced into the German language.

Through the cities of of Bischdorf, Boblitz, Klein Benchow we reach our starting place Lübben. Content or just satisfied? That is the question many runners ask themselves over years of running in their local running club always being faithful. And suddenly they rush into an affair. Now I notice what I devoided for so long. Long missed feelings reappear such as headwind and happiness to explore something new and well-known at the same time.

Tour de France atmosphere at the finish line area

And where the Tour de France is there is Didi Senft. He is missing not a single Tour and even today he knows how to cheer on the starters as we cross the finish line. A woman dressed in a traditional sorbian/wendish costume with a large cap the so-called “Lapa” puts the bronze cucumber medals on bilious green ribbons around our necks.

Hundreds of people are gathered on the “Schlossinsel” and the ambiance feels more like a street party just more sportive. Many lie in the grass, receive a leg massage or serve themselves at the buffet. Our condition – that has only been built up over running – was sufficient to endure the bike race after all. Nevertheless, 122 kilometers with an average speed of 30km/h.

From now there are only a few hours left until the next chase for the cucumber starts again: the 5KM Night run. But firstly we must collect our starting documents for tomorrows skate race at the race office in the city of Burg.

It is almost 5 p.m. and the starting signal for the 42KM skate marathon will sound any minute. As we are watching the skaters getting ready I recognize Claudia Pechstein – famous speed skater and most successful German Winter Olympian of all time. Due to her muscular and strong thighs she stands out from the other girls in today’s competition. However, she is complaining about foot pain and the tight skates, too.

Saturday night: anniversary edition of the night run

Even though it is only for 5KM without time-keeping we are looking forward to hearing the starting signal for the race as running is our favorite discipline right now. It is new moon in Burg. It is 8.30 p.m. as the commentator yells: “On the cucumber, get set, GO!” So the crowd gets moving. The glow of the torches and headlamps look like hundreds of lighting bugs at the Spree riverside.

The lighting bugs are running across a bridge marvelously decorated with fire bowls. Accompanied by fireworks we are running past beautifully illuminated water games set up by the local volunteer fire brigade.

The track is short and until one feels thirsty the race is already over. This year’s premiere if the night run is a real highlight of the anniversary edition of the “Spreewald Marathon”. The cucumber medal is as short as the whole race. However, increasing our personal medal table we are happy for the little gherkin and enjoying the firework of the superlative rounding off a sportive Saturday.

Sunday: Skating half-marathon

Wet streets and drizzling conditions right at the beginning of our skating career. It was raining all morning and still laying in a cozy bed makes my adrenalin level rise. However, the important thing is taking part. As seen in the movie “Cool Running’s” we are, too, total beginners and started training only a few weeks ago.
We are just getting used to our sports apparatus. The event offers races from 10, 21 and 42 KM. For the sake of precaution we decided to skate only half-marathon.

The tactical targeting is similar to bike races and should suit us just fine. I am used to driving in Kay’s slipstream. But here the male skaters are starting two minutes ahead and Kay will hopefully wait for me. I can feel the lactate in arms and thighs already as we slowly skate to the starting line. It is just more than natural to be excited before our very first skating race experience. But as I mentioned earlier isn’t this one of the reasons in favor of being unfaithful?

Hundreds of skaters in skin-tight racing suits waiting for the starting signal to sound. I am glad to see also normal people dressed in running shirt and shorts like us because until I have lost a few pounds no one gets me into a suit like that. I am standing in a relaxed posture and trying to look cool and not being recognized as the beginner that I am. Still, my muscles become cramped and my feet hurt. I do not see Claudia’s muscular thighs again instead a few men starting from the women’s starting line.

The starting signal sounds

Quick as a flash the pros are out of sight. While I struggle with the moist street the skaters in the front row attack each other shaking off slower ones or weaker skaters. But we are, too, facing tough competition because of the fear of being laughed at in the end. We are skating on the Ringchaussee that unites the village Burg districts Burg Kolonie and Burg Kauber. After a few kilometers my muscles feel warmed up as I start to follow a large group skating rhythmically in tentacle motion gliding over the asphalt. Their tricots say “Rolling Oldies” and I feel like I am in such good hands. Kay captures the whole scenario with all audio-visual devices at hand.

I become safer, boisterous even as I move with ice-skating steps and finally pass the “Rolling Oldies”. I am trying to skate on one leg for a longer time positioning myself with a low upper torso in order to offer very little resistance to the wind – a little bit like a cucumber. Kay has longer legs and is therefore more able to skate on one side leading to a higher body control. I am impressed by the endurance we have only through running. While the pros skate with a speed average of 40km/h we are glad to hit the 25 on our speedometer. One thing is clear, until the Berlin Skate Marathon in September we have to work on both speed and technique.

Bones do not break but they splinter

I want to make use of Kay’s slipstream. That works perfectly when we are biking. But here it is way more difficult and I know that just skating 1 to 2 meters behind him makes hardly any sense. And as Kay pushes once I have to push twice. It is not only that his legs are longer than mine but the roll size; too, that makes the difference. I try to relieve the back for a minute raising my torso. Not such a good idea I had to notice soon; so I go back in squat position. Do not think about what happens if Kay falls down, I remind myself.

In the beginning of the movie “Cool Running’s” they say: “Bones do not break but they splinter“. And just in the very same moment Kay slips in a 90-degree turn sliding over the wet asphalt. Headgear and knee and arm protectors made of soft, lightweight padded material avoided the worst. Nonetheless, he is on his feet again real quick because despite the poor rank we are looking down to our personal half-marathon record.

We are in the second round and I notice the frightening silence. No cars. No railroad track. No airplanes. Only the buzzing sound of our skating rollers. Our body is used to the steady motion of gliding – a complete absent-mindedly flow. And what was not supposed to happen while having an affair suddenly happened. I fell in love with a new sport.

Feeling like the gherkin queen I receive the forth cucumber medal. This time is silver. After the race we share our experiences with the more experienced while the runners getting ready for the weekends highlight: The 10th “Spreewald-Marathon”.

Theoretically speaking, one could run the marathon after skating the half marathon. Theoretically. That would be something. Maybe next year.

Résumé

Like speed-dating, in the end you know what you want or what you are able to or at least what is not possible by any means. The “Spreewald-Marathon” event is definitely more than just a One-Night-Stand and everybody finds his or her gherkin. The chance of keeping this affair hidden is low because everyone should find themselves on at least one ranking list.

Back home we will present our strong, toned and powerfully built legs and arms; about the sore muscles we remain silent.